Sublimation is a quick and fairly simple way to create beautiful, personalized items out of blank substrates. However, this process can easily go wrong if the directions aren’t followed carefully. I’ve compiled a list 
of some the most common sublimation mistakes customers make in order to help you avoid making these same blunders.
- Not using color correction software: Whether you’re using Artainium or SubliJet sublimation ink, Coastal can provide you with an ICC profile or a PowerDriver to ensure that you get the brightest, most spot-on colors available. Printing without one of these color management softwares may lead to your end product looking dull or the colors being slightly off.
- Not transferring onto 100% polyester fabric/polyester-coated substrates: I know, I know – not everyone wants to wear polyester shirts! However, in order to get the best sublimation transfer onto fabrics, it needs to be polyester. Sublimation blanks work the same way. Unless the blanks (like mugs, mousepads, coasters, etc.) have been specially treated with a polyester coating, you won’t end up with much of an image on your final product.
- Accidentally installing inkjet ink into your sublimation printer: An easy way to figure out if you’ve made this mistake is if you only end up with yellow when you transfer the image onto your substrate. It’s always a good idea to make sure when you first receive your printer to store any sample inkjet cartridges away so they aren’t accidentally installed.
- Not pressing at a high enough temperature: Sublimation takes A LOT of heat! Most substrates require roughly 400 degrees F to transfer correctly. You can get a full list of the time and temperatures needed here.
- Printing on the wrong side of the sublimation paper: Image Right sublimation paper is the best paper we’ve found in all of our tests. Printing on the wrong side of the paper will impede your efforts to create a beautiful product. If you’re having difficulty differentiating between the two sides, simply fold a corner over to compare the color of both sides. One side should be bright white, whereas the other will be slightly yellow. Always print on the bright white side.
- Forgetting to remove the plastic coating from substrates: Though many substrates are now being produced without the protective plastic coating on top of the substrate, it’s always good to double check (you’ll notice that the substrate isn’t quite as bright white). Accidentally pressing the blank with the plastic still on it will result in a melty, ugly mess.
- Not using your printer on a regular basis: Both Epson and Ricoh printers can benefit from having a head cleaning or a simple print run through every few days or on a weekly basis. This helps prevent clogging and banding lines when you’re ready to print an image.
- Using bad images: The sublimation process can create vibrant colorful products, but even sublimation can’t help you if you start out with a low resolution image.
Visit our Knowledge Base for more information on getting started with sublimation!
printing on chromaluxe AL there is a lighter color at the edges. Have printed large enough past the edge…trying to make a mosaic and can’t have the lighter edge..help!
This could be caused by a few different things. If you notice that the color is lighter around the edges, make sure that you don’t have the substrate positioned too close to the edge of the heat press. The very outside of the heat platen will not get as hot as the center of the platen. Also, using a sublimation pad or wrap may help spread the heat out more evenly creating a more solid image. Finally, it’s important to make sure you don’t have any cold spots on your heat press that could be causing uneven heating – a simple heat gun or crafter thermometer can let you verify that the entire heat platen is heating up correctly.
Trying to print but the image doesn’t transfer. I have a heat mug press and a t-shirt press and neither transfer the image over. I have tried 3 different paper brands and have sublimation ink.
There could be a number of things going on. If you’re just seeing a yellow image transfer onto the garment, you’re probably using inkjet ink. You’ll also want to make sure you’re using 100% polyester garments – sublimation cannot dye cotton. Also, you’ll see either no print or a very faded print if your heat press isn’t set high enough. Please feel free to call or email or technical support for more help if you need!
Kelly,
I am getting the same result of the yellow transfer. When I purchased my printer i had installed the original cartridges & printed one document on accident . I have now installed the sublimation ink & getting the yellow color after using the heat press.
pleas advise
If any inkjet ink has been in the printer, you will need to do several head cleanings and possibly some head flushings in order to make sure that the inkjet ink is completely out of the printer. If you’re still seeing yellow in your image, it means that you still have inkjet ink in the printer lines.
Trying to troubleshoot a problem I am having. Not sure if it’s ink, paper or substrate related. Using high quality sawgrass IQ ink. Trying to print to a white PVC/Rubber ball. Heat press transfer seems to go fine but color fades on substrate within 24 hours and continues to fade dramatically over subsequent days and blur somewhat. Have tried different heat times. temp and pressure but that doesn’t seem to make any difference. Any thoughts?
I believe the issue may be the substrate. Everything I’ve read about PVC is that the sublimated image tends to fade rather quickly, so you may want to try a different type of material.
Why when i sublimate a mug i am finding white smears around the edge of the mug on a black image.
Tom – Can you give us some more details? What heat press are you using? What Paper and Ink are you using? Which mugs are you using?
Hi! I have a 3d sublimation machine and I tried it on one mug, 200 deg C for 8 minutes. The result was not good because the picture did not transfer properly. The second attempt was with 4 mugs, 200 deg C for 14 mins. It came out alright but I noticed some mugs got a tiny black spots and one image turned a bit yellow. I’m using a mug, paper, ink and printer that came with the package. The printer is Epson stylus C88. Thank you in advance for your feedback.
Hello,
With mugs in a 3D machine we suggest 204° C for 12-15 minutes. Where you are experiencing some issues at 14 minutes we would suggest maybe trying the 12-13 minute range. Though please do keep in mind that the paper itself may still yellow a bit since it is being essentially cooked in the press.
try 400 degree heat for 250 seconds and this is what works great for me
Hi
How long can I leave a print on a piece of Sublimation paper. I want to pre-print lots of images for mug pressing whilst things are quiet but don’t know if the ink deteriorates after a certain length of time.
We have had great prints after a month, and have even done it up to 6 months after printing. Though after that amount of time passing its hard for us to say how accurate the colors were from the original image.
Thanks! That’s really helpful!! I know with some other transfer processes I do, I’ve actually done them years later but just need to check with this process!
Hi I have rcecently bought a mug press heat transfer paper I have tried to print a couple of mugs but to no avail the image wont transfer I an using a hp printer but am using ordinery ink do I need to purchase special ink ??? if so what is it
Ta Brian
Hello Brian,
If you are attempting to use Sublimation paper on the mug then there are 2 things you need to make sure to do. One you do need to be using sublimation ink, unfortunately we are unaware if anyone makes any for HP printers. Another thing is you need to make sure that you are using sublimation coated mugs, otherwise the image won’t transfer as well.
hello anyone
I’m doing some mug printing this time.. my problem is, there are plenty of tiny red dots outside my design.. it appears so untidy to look since it is very visible.. somewhat like a smudge from the design.. i have already adjusted the temp and time but to no avail. any possible way to correct it?
Hello Mark,
If these red dots you are seeing are around the paper it could possibly be left over ink from a previous job that somehow migrated to the wrap or element. Try wrapping your mug with a piece of plain copy paper on top of the transfer sheet to fully protect the uncovered areas of the mug from the element/wrap.
If they are around your design and under the transfer paper, this is usually due to a light over-spray from a print head. I have had customers who have it print out fine and the moment the heat hits it gases off and activates the color. This over spray can be caused by a few things, two of the most common are either a head strike from a previous paper jam has placed ink around the nozzle and is slowly dripping down during printing, this will eventually fix itself as the printer is used or you can run some small designs through to get it off faster. Another is the nozzle itself is malfunctioning and may need to be replaced, in which case you would have to speak to the manufacturer of the printer.
Hi
I have a problem when printing black and white colors or gray scale in general. For some reason gray colors turn purple on the transfer paper and whenever I transfer it on a mug or a phone case it turns yellow.
I’m using an epson L800 with sublimation in and a 3d vacuum machine.
Any suggestions.. anybody?
Hello Mark,
A purplish color can mean an issue with your ICC Profile, which would be something you would need to talk the people you got it from to correct that. On the other hand a yellowish tint can also be a symptom of of over pressing. I would tackle the ICC profile aspect first to see if that the cause and then move onto adjusting the time and temperature.
Hi,
I have Epson L1300.
I am facing issues when I print on transfer paper and than on cotton , than the print comes very light half ink left on transfer paper.
On polyster giving very vibrant and good print.
Looking for some help.
Thank you
Hello,
Sublimation is only for 100% Polyester and will not transfer correctly to cotton.
i am printing on a plate, I have used 120 secs and temperature 204* C using a ricoh sublimation printer on heat transfer paper but the design turn yellow please help me urgent
Hello,
Are you using sublimation or heat transfer paper, and what type of press are you using? Yellow is usually an indication of over-pressing so it could be too hot or too long depending on which process you are using.
I am using sublimation heat transfer paper and I am using a machine press, so what is your advice that will help me.?
Can I use the yellowish plate to do another trial on it?
Hello Alain,
If you are doing it at 204° C and it is over-pressing you may want to drop it between 170 to 190 and see if the yellowing stops. Unfortunately a yellowed item will not clear up so it may not be the best to keep using to look for improvements.
I tried 90 sec and temperature 180 c and it still gave me the yellow colour
Hello everyone. I have recently purchased the Ricoh Aficio SG3110DNW and the Generic
110V 3D Sublimation Heat Press Machine for Phone Cases Mugs Cups Heat Transfer Printing. With this machine I received some heat transfer paper as well as gloves and tape. I bought a couple of moulds of phones and some 3d blank cases. The problem I am having is that there is no transfer to the cases so I proceeded to change to a better quality paper. Finally we are seeing some of the image transferred to the case but the image is still blurry and in no way projects to be a high quality production. I don’t know whats wrong? Is it the heat, the paper or the time. We are following the basic instructions that came with the machine and for example it says that a phone case should be vacuum heated for 6 minutes in an 190 degrees. Can anyone please help me since I have used all my earnings in this project and I feel a little frustrated since I had the chance to sell the cases in a mall during the Christmas season and finally couldn’t do it. Please advise me…thanks anticipated.
Make sure your printer is using actual sublimation inks. Without this nothing will transfer.
Hi there! After pressing, I’m noticing a very thin rainbow border around the outline of my designs.. any ideas?
This could be a pressure issue, try increasing your pressure to prevent gass off.
hi 🙂
I need your help .. I’m a beginner at using sublimation transfer paper.. and I have a problem .. first let me tell U what I have .. I’m using epson l800 printer and a press machine..and I use it to print on baby onesie which is almost 90% cotton and I use 355 degree for 40 seconds ..the problem is that after pressing the paper on the baby onesie the result is so fade and mostly all of the photo still on the sublimation transfer paper .. I’ve tried to increase the temperature but unfortunately the baby onesie was burned 🙁
so I don’t know what to do 🙁
please help me 🙂
thanks ^_^
Hello, for sublimation you need at least 50% polyester.
Good day I have just started with making mugs etc. I have an Epson sub printer and sub paper and sub ink. All my images come out very dull on the mug why is that what must I do to enhance the colour? After I’m done the imagen left on the paper is lovely but not on the mug? Please help thankyou
Hello you would need a color profile provided by the manufacturer of your inks.
I have a question… I am trying to press mugs. I am using a Sawgrass sublimation printer, sublimation paper, heat transfer, the bands, and a 3D mug heat press. I keep getting a blue hue wherever the paper touches the mug and there is no image. I have made the paper larger than the mug in height, but since I can’t wrap it through the handles, I am now seeing a straight light hue of blue line where the paper ends by the handle. Has anyone else had this? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
This is usually due to an over active print head spraying a mist of ink that only shows when it gasses of. I suggest Calling Sawgrass Tech Support to see how they suggest to fix it.
Hi, I have an 3D sublimation machine and i have a problem with the mug´s process.
English isn´t my first language, but i hope that you can understand my problem..
In My first attempt 1 side of the mug was fine and the other side was faded. The mug was lain in the grid.
The next attempts were with the mug up, so the bottom was the only part faded. It seems a problem with the temperature. One part of the drawing comes fine and the bottom is faded. Do you have some advice? We have tried 200 º for 8 min. and we have already tried 195º for 9.5 min as well. The problem persists.
Hello most 3D machines have 2 elements that need to be on att all times, make sure they are turned on according to your machines instructions.
When sublimating smaller tiles (2×2), I am finding the center of the tile isn’t turning out as shiny as the rest of the tile. A pressure issue perhaps? Thanks!
Hello Collette, Great question! We recommend trying to press the tiles using a pressing pillow under the tile. This should help to even out the pressure and heat across the entire surface. You can grab some pressing pillows on our site here: https://www.coastalbusiness.com/protective-foam-pillow-for-heat-transfer-applications-foam-g.html
Feel free to reach out to us by phone at 800 562-7760 or use the chat on our website if you have more troubles.
Thanks,
The Coastal Crew
Hello… Anyone pls pls please help me. I am using 3D sublimation machine and Epson L805. Output results always turns into yellow shade and even grey colour turns into greenish and yellowish.
I am using 180 degree and 8 mins for mobile covers and (200 degree 8 lins for mugs). Please suggest guys as m in urgent need.
Hello,
The time and temps might vary a little depending on the inks you are using along with the particular model of 3D press. Generally if you have a grey or black colored section that is coming out with a green hint to it, that is meaning it is underpressed. You can troubleshoot further with our technical support team at techsupport@coastalbusiness.com.
Thanks,
Coastal Business Supplies